Despite what
the name might suggest, the Tides restaurant in Vero Beach does not
offer a waterfront dining experience. That might cause some
travelers to automatically cross it off their list as a destination
restaurant. After all, if you're going to a place called the
Tides in a city called Vero Beach, you expect to see tides or beach,
or, preferable, both.
Go ahead, drive the few more
blocks and take in the view, maybe even walk on the beach a bit.
But then kick the sand off your feet and put on something nice and go
to the Tides for a lovely upscale dining experience.
The tides opened five years ago
and continues to be a popular choice for Vero locals as well as
tourists in the know. Leanne Kelleher is the chef/owner. A
graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.,
Kelleher combines her classic training with local ingredients to offer
a distinctly Florida experience.
The menu is not as weighted with
seafood selections as you might expect. As a matter of fact, one
of the best things I tasted on a visit there was the pan-seared veal
chop ($34). The impressively large center-cut chop is cooked to
a beautiful medium-rare and served in a puddle of natural juices
tinged with Madeira wine reduced to a rich sauce. Mashed
potatoes infused with roasted garlic complemented the meat, and sautéed
vegetables and porcini mushrooms rounded out the plate.
That is not to say that the seafood selections are given short shrift.
I enjoyed a beautiful piece of yellowtail snapper ($26). Pearly white
and flaky, topped with a crust configured of macadamia nuts and fresh
herbs. The richness of the nuts and herbs was well-accented by
the chardonnay sauce, which had the slightest bit of tang from a
squeeze of lemon juice.
From the list of appetizers, I enjoyed the oysters 222 ($10), duos of
oysters prepared three ways. I especially liked the version that
was grilled and topped with chewy pieces of smoky bacon and spritzed
with Key West lime juice and a dollop of mango barbecue sauce. I
also liked the baked oysters with a stuffing of crab meat and chopped
peppers. The fried oysters were the lesser of the lot.
Just a tad too greasy.
Crispy Asian style jumbo sea scallops ($12) were a creative
presentation of tender scallops atop cold soba noodles with a sesame
ponzu broth.
The
lobster bisque ($10) was quite good, lighter than most but evenly
balanced and dotted with pieces of sweet lobster meat.
My
companion enjoyed the salad called the blue and green ($8), hearts of
romaine lettuce with fresh spinach tossed with walnuts and tangy bits
of Granny Smith apples. The blue was provided by crumbles of
Danish blue cheese, and it was dressed with poppyseed and sparkling
cider
Desserts are made on the premises. Best was raspberry bread
pudding ($8), nicely caramelized and not too sweet.
Service, though a tad slow, was impressively professional. How
refreshing to have someone other than the designated server bring the
food to the table and put it in front of the person who ordered it
without asking first. Such a simple little trick to learn but
one that leaves a lasting impression.
The
Tides has an unassuming presence on Cardinal Drive. From the
street it looks as though it could be someone's home. There is a small
bar for waiting though don't expect to sit down there. The
dining room has a warm and inviting feel. Tables are covered
with crisp white linens to lend an upscale feel to the experience.
Vero Beach is becoming a weekend destination for many central
Floridians. It's an easy drive from the Orlando area; one can
drive down and back in the same day.
But
plan a leisurely meal at the Tides if you go. And afterward,
walk down to the beach and enjoy the surf.
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Scott's
recommendation: You can't see the tide at the Tides, but you can
have a lovely dining experience. Start with the oysters 222 and
a salad. Have the yellowtail snapper if you enjoy seafood or
veal chop if you're in the mood for meat.
Scott
Joseph can be reached at 407-420-5514 or
sjoseph@orleandosentinel.com. Read his past reviews at
OrlandoSentinel.com/dining.
Taken
Directly from The Orlando Sentinel,
April 3, 2005
